Skip to main content

Posts

The House of Castarede in Armagnac

 When word gets out about a great spirit hiding in plain sight somewhere the market, it's usually not long before it disappears.  Evidence Black Maple Hill 11 and 16 year old,  Gabriel and Andreu XO, the debut of Whistlepig etc., etc,... once discovered, these all vanished into the hands of happy sippers. I'm happy to report just such a spirit has quietly appeared into Bacchus' warehouse.  It is the Castarede Reserve de Famille 20 year Armagnac.   It is one of the most perfect spirits you will ever have regardless of price.  But speaking of price the fact that this wholesales for $65.00 earns it "Must-Have" status. The House of Castarède, founded in 1832, is the oldest of all Armagnac trading houses.  After distillation the spirit is placed into black oak barrels and aged in their famed cellars on the river Baise which just happens to be a perfect environment for aging Armagnac.  The Castarede House is now being run by Florence Castarede a sixth g...

Thomas Jefferson in Chianti

Not too long ago I had the chance to visit Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson in Charlottesville, VA.   I was surprised to learn there that despite all of his worldly achievements what Mr. Jefferson desired most was a domestic existence at Monticello where he could pursue his studies of science, engineering and agriculture.  As amazing as the house and buildings are at Monticello, the gardens there are no less so. The gardens have been restored to show Jefferson's experiments in domestic crops of vegetables, cereals, orchards and vineyards.  It was clear that he was keenly focused on how best to utilize each acre of his land. Shortly after my visit to Monticello, I was in Italy visiting producers in Tuscany and upon arriving at Bibbiano in Castellina in Chianti I began to have flashbacks of Jefferson's Monticello.  You see Bibbiano is more than just another Chianti producer.  It is a rather large estate, a distinct "place" in the Chianti Classico with a lo...

The Vanuccis of Carmignano

“Not a Carmignano”,  I recalled telling Steve, my importer, when he mentioned the initial contact he had with Silvia Vanucci of Piaggia.  “ Number one-they’re never ripe, number two-Cabernet has no business being planted in Tuscany, and number three-they simply don’t sell” I protested not too delicately.  This occurred just about a year ago, right around the time I had the chance to attend the  Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchiere  tasting in New York.  It was here by coincidence that I met Silvia Vanucci, who was pleasantly standing behind her table pouring tastes of her ’08 Carmignano Riserva.  Wow, was I about to be schooled!  The wine was nothing like any other Carmignano I had ever tasted...ripe, seductive and richly textured.  It was nothing short of magnificent and far better integrated than many of the renowned Super-Tuscans I had the opportunity to try at the event.  I reached for my phone and called Steve... Perhaps the reason that a we...

Some of the Venerable of some Upcomers in Piemonte

Bruno Rocca, Ca del Re It's clear, when looking out over the vast amphitheater of crus in Barbaresco, that the parcels of Rabaja owned by Bruno Rocca have the most perfect exposures.  This perfection of site is equally matched by Bruno's perfectionist methodology in the cellar.  The cellar is immaculate and the wines we tasted from it all shared a common theme of suave elegance and polish with each wine reflecting its origins precisely.  Recently Rocca acquired vineyards in Asti where he is now growing Barbera.  Barbera in Asti has an important role because in Asti it is relegated to the best exposures whereas in the Langhe it is Nebbiolo which is planted in the top exposures.  Tasting Highlights: '09 Barbera D'Asti- Wonderfully fragrant nose with floral and spice tones.  Broad and expressive on palate with long, lush flavors and the classic supple textures commonly found in the wines of Bruno Rocca. '10 Langhe Nebbiolo "Fralu"- Brilliant redfuits and wild...

Giovanni Corino of La Morra

Perfect for the upcoming season are the hidden gems from the Giovanni Corino Estate in Piedmont. Today the small winery of Giovanni Corino is producing wonderful wines at incredibly fair prices.  Giuliano has improvised on his training from Altare to create wines which have the distinctive softness and perfume of La Morra while showing lovely focus and balance. A little history to clear things up.  Giovanni Corino arrived in La Morra in 1952.  He had two sons, Renato in '63 and Giuliano in '68.  During the 1980's they were mentored by their close friend, Elio Altare and began to lower yields, improve quality and bottle under their own label.  During this time their reputation grows, the Wine Advocate refers to the estate's style as being "Pomerol-like" and in 2005 the estate splits between brothers Renato and Giuliano.  Renato develops a new label and Giuliano retains the original label as well as the property near the classic Giachini vineyard (also t...

Fields of Dreams

Row 95 is now working with Vinergia of Spain.  Vinergia, run by Ignasi Lopez and Robert Hunter, is a company that does just a few products, but they do them extraordinarily well.  The core of their portfolio is the "Campos (fields)" line.  This line is comprised of value-priced, estate wines which reflect the true essence of a few of the unique and distinct regions of Spain.   The combination of quality, authenticity and value are the stuff of retailer's and restauranteur's dreams. Take the Campos de Luz Garnacha for example.  The Campos de Luz (Fields of Light) is from the DO of Carinena, just downriver from Rioja where Garnacha thrives in the dry, sunny climate.  This wine, typically around $9.00 retail, is from a single estate with plots of 40-80 year old Garnacha bush vines with yields of less than 3 tons per acre.   No oak, no artifice, no misguided efforts in the cellar to get higher scores, ... just a pure expression of vibrant, sun-drenched Gar...

Dollar Dazed

I just finished two days of in-store tastings at different retailers offering "dollar over cost" sales. Both stores were crowded and customers were loading their carts full of wines, beer and spirits. It was an alarmingly illuminating glimpse into what people are actually putting into their bodies these days when it comes to beverage alcohol. All Manner of Cakes and Jams, Chocolates, Barefeet, Flip Flops, Neon Colors (not on the lables, in the juice people), Honey this, Sweet that... and that was just in the wine department! Our pancreas is a complex and delicate organ. We do it no justice when we bombard it with high levels of refined carbs, alcohol and sugar. Just such behavior is what is responsible for the epidemic levels of Type 2 diabetes we currently have in this country. No wonder we continue have raging debates on health-care. I can't help but think that the conventional wisdom on the part of "Big Alcohol" goes something like this "Well the consume...