Thomas Jefferson in Chianti

Not too long ago I had the chance to visit Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson in Charlottesville, VA.   I was surprised to learn there that despite all of his worldly achievements what Mr. Jefferson desired most was a domestic existence at Monticello where he could pursue his studies of science, engineering and agriculture.  As amazing as the house and buildings are at Monticello, the gardens there are no less so. The gardens have been restored to show Jefferson's experiments in domestic crops of vegetables, cereals, orchards and vineyards.  It was clear that he was keenly focused on how best to utilize each acre of his land.

Shortly after my visit to Monticello, I was in Italy visiting producers in Tuscany and upon arriving at Bibbiano in Castellina in Chianti I began to have flashbacks of Jefferson's Monticello.  You see Bibbiano is more than just another Chianti producer.  It is a rather large estate, a distinct "place" in the Chianti Classico with a long history of agriculture going back to the 9th century.  It's 25 hectares of vineyards comprise only those areas on the property ideally suited to growing perfect Sangiovese.  The philosophy continues to where their olive trees are planted, and where the cereal and biomass crops are farmed. Woodlands are preserved for hunting, the solar panels which generate the power for the winery are perfectly sited to maximize the sun's energy while being sufficiently hidden so as to minimize their visual impact.  Even the historic stone buildings on the estate have been preserved and converted to guest cottages to best utilize their presence.  In short it is a self-sustaining all-organic agricultural operation producing olive oil, cereals, biomass fuel, tourism and exceptional wine.

At the helm of this unique estate is Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi (strange coincidence he shares the same first name as Mr. Jefferson?).  He represents the fifth generation of ownership of the property and is fully devoted to the intense study of each of its hectares.  When one considers the myriad of choices a landowner is faced with in terms of what crops to plant, animals to raise etc in terms of best utilization of land, the prospect can be mind boggling.  It has only been through meticulous, Jefferson-like research and experimentation that Tommaso has achieved such a productive, harmoniously working farm.

A lot of credit for the wine produced at Bibbiano needs to go to Giulio Gambelli, an icon of enology who had worked with Bibbiano since 1942.   Gambelli embodies the transition of all which historically made Chianti great to be preserved in today's Chianti.  Gambelli received his training under the great Biondi Santi and it therefore comes as no surprise that the Sangiovese Grosso which goes into Bibbiano's Chianti Classico Riserva "Capannino" was planted from cuttings obtained from Brunello.

The wines of Bibbiano are truly wines of place.  The philosophy at Bibbiano is "Geniusloci" literally meaning "local talent" or, more as it sounds, the "genius of the locale".

If you're heading up to tomorrow's Chianti Classico tasting event in New York be sure to stop by and say hello to Tommaso.



Tasting Notes: 

'10 Chianti Classico-Pure sangiovese note of sour cherry fruit with spice and cedar tones.  Lively structure with great freshness and cut, focused, delicious flavors of redfruits and wood spice.

'09 Chianti Montornello-This single vineyard is comprised of looser soils giving the wine a unique richness and velveteen structure.  Dense dark cherry and spice/cedar tones on the nose.  The beauty here being in its lush structure, suave and polished with great length and finesse...Great value.

'08 Chianti Classico Riserva "Capannino"-A single vineyard planted with Sangiovese Grosso from Brunello di Montalcino.  Magnificent nose of suave red fruits and classic saddle-leather and cedar of Brunello.  Long and lush on palate with wonderfully complex flavors great silken structure.  A fraction of the price of even mediocre Brunello.