Bruno Rocca, Ca del Re
It's clear, when looking out over the vast amphitheater of crus in Barbaresco, that the parcels of Rabaja owned by Bruno Rocca have the most perfect exposures. This perfection of site is equally matched by Bruno's perfectionist methodology in the cellar. The cellar is immaculate and the wines we tasted from it all shared a common theme of suave elegance and polish with each wine reflecting its origins precisely. Recently Rocca acquired vineyards in Asti where he is now growing Barbera. Barbera in Asti has an important role because in Asti it is relegated to the best exposures whereas in the Langhe it is Nebbiolo which is planted in the top exposures. Tasting Highlights:
'09 Barbera D'Asti- Wonderfully fragrant nose with floral and spice tones. Broad and expressive on palate with long, lush flavors and the classic supple textures commonly found in the wines of Bruno Rocca.
'10 Langhe Nebbiolo "Fralu"- Brilliant redfuits and wildflowers on the nose with pronounced anise tones. Racy, Burgundian structure opens on the palate to reveal classic Nebbiolo flavors of redfruit, forest floor and truffle.
'08 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide- selected from the best parcels of all of Rocca's holdings. 70% Rabaja, 30% Neive, 50% NFO.- Incredibly dense nose of camphor, cocoa, wild berries, sweet spice and earth. Great structure and complexity, deep, yet remarkably fresh.
Ca del Re- "House of the Sun", Asti
Through our relationship with Luisa Rocca, we were introduced to the new generation of the Perrone family who own a small property making primarily Moscato d'Asti. Their vineyards, located in the commune of Ca del Re (one of the 52 noted communes in Asti) are among the best...steeply sloped, high elevation and populated with old vines. Their production of Moscato d'Asti, 3000 cs from 10 hctrs., is microscopic by regional comparison but it elevates this humble doc to new heights.
'12 Ca del Re Moscato d'Asti, Maruro Perrone-Super fresh, floral, hightone nose with flowers, peaches and minerals. Creamy on palate with a long, delicious finish.
Day 2 Altare and the Roero
What's new and not so new at Altare:
We spent the better part of the morning on Day 2 at Altare tasting and talking with Elio and his daughter Silvia. What's not so new at Altare is the incredible work ethos at this estate. While perhaps not as glamorous to write about as new techniques or varietals, it remains the daily rigors of farming impeccable fruit which set Altare wines apart. To label his methods as Organic is a gross understatement. So while their sites were among the best in La Morra, it is the immense amount of time invested in the vineyards which make the Altare wines exceptional. The steeply sloped vineyards require long hours of hand-spreading manure, hand-hoeing weeds and deselecting fruit on numerous occasions throughout the vintage. In addition to many other painstaking tasks it was interesting to learn that they hand cultivate their own wild yeasts. Finally, they never stop trying to do things better, while remaining natural, in each subsequent vintage. This is their secret which is not very secret. Perhaps not as fun as the "traditional vs. modern" debate the winepress enjoys fanning but much more integral in the production of some of the world's best wines. As a matter of fact, Elio's take of the "traditional vs. modern" debate cannot be more succinct when he makes the following point; If tradition was to put overcropped fruit, violently pressed into ancient dirty barrels in an environment with no regard for cleanliness and age the wine for many years until the fruit was gone and then often to bottle and store in the attic...who today is truly traditional?
This old-fashioned work ethic is the basis, however, for what is actually new at Altare. An incredible fan of Burgundy, Elio had become smitten with a Burgundy he had tasted some years ago made with pure destemmed Pinot Noir. An inveterate experimenteur, he set out to make his own destemmed version of Barolo. The process proved to be much more difficult with Nebbiolo as it is actually a very delicate grape and required immensely gentle handling and therefore long hours of picking and sorting. The results (see tasting notes below) are, however, magnificent examples of silken, supple wines made, of course, in microscopic quantities. It is worth mentioning here that in addition to being a big fan of Burgundy, Altare is also convinced of Nebbiolo's close ampelogical relationship to Pinot Noir. As evidence he brought us out to his crushpad and pointed out a small patch of land below it where grapevines were now growing, obviously from seeds which tumbled off the pad during harvest a number of years ago. These vines have been bearing fruit for a number of years and, being of their own mutation, they are different in shape from Nebbiolo with the clusters and leaves more closely resembling Pinot Noir.
Another development at famiglia Altare is the new wine they are making called "Campogrande" from the Cinqueterre region. The Cinqueterre is a picturesque region in the Italian Mediterranean bordering the Ligurian and Tuscan coasts. Here the mountains meet the sea and the ancient vineyards are comprised of steep terraces perched, cliff-like, high above the sea. With their dramatic views and head-spinning elevations they have been left largely abandoned due to the extreme difficulty required to work them and, in some cases, their now greater value as vacation real estate. It is unbelievable to imagine that, in his advanced years, Elio would take on the back-breaking proposition of clearing, replanting and cultivating native varieties of Albarella and Bosco on these steeply terraced vineyards. But, as Elio says of himself, he has never been one to do things the easy way. The resulting wines show flavors of olive, almond, sea brine and stone fruits with a firm, minerality and lift on the palate. One can only imagine them pairing perfectly with the fresh and oil-preserved Mediterranean seafood the ancients were sustained on in the centuries prior to modern refrigeration. Made in tiny quantities and difficult to obtain, these wines are certainly age-worthy and serve as a true delicacy for serious wine drinkers interested in ancient varieties.
Tasting Notes:
'10 Barolo Brunate: sweet, supple floral nose, delicious flavors with still massive structure.
'10 Barolo Arborina-lovely nose of wild strawberries and floral tones, silken texture and balanced structure this will prove to be a lovely expression of La Morra.
'10 Barolo Arborina VV (Hand destemmed)-Velveteen, pure sweet nose of Nebbiolo essence. Plush, sweet and focused on palate...incredibly luxurious.
'11 Barolo Arborina-lovely sweet nose with complex elements of forest floor and spice. Very broad flavors, lush texture.
'11 Barolo Arborina VV (Hand destemmed)-Wow! Confiture of Nebbiolo, strawberry-floral nose which is broad and hugely expressive. Flavors are the essence of La Morra with firm tannins and a fine polished structure.
'10 Cerretta (Serralunga): to be released in 2016. pure, sweet nose of deep woodspice and anise. Rich, deep flavors with a lush texture.
'86 Vigna Arborina (experimental bottling 200% new oak, a la Dominique Laurent, experimental bottling)-very youthful menthol and savory forest floor nose, redolent cranberry fruit on palate with other mature flavors, good long finish.
'09 La Villa (60% Barbera, 40% Nebbiolo)-sexy, deep nose with elements of anise and blackfruits. Long, lush and elegant on palate.
'09 Barolo La Morra-very expressive sweet redfruit and tobaccco nose. Complex and classic on palate posessing a unique refined structure.
Domenico Clerico
If ever there was evidence that a man and his wines could evolve together it is to be found at Clerico. When using such words as powerful, passionate, complex, controversial, focused and lively,... one could either be describing Domenico Clerico or the wines he produces. His ceaseless efforts in the vineyards are wonderfully reflected in this latest batch of releases. The % of new oak is gradually declining but the end result is still more about meticulous viticulture than wood. Not only is Domenico unrelenting in his efforts in the vineyard, he is in the final stages of completion of a magnificent new winery. The effort to create a true work of art combining earth and design must have been nothing short of monumental. An effort, however, which now stands as edifice to the precious terrior of Monforte.
Tasting Notes:
'11 Dolcetto "Visadi" - Absolutely pure and complete. This dolcetto has rich fruit flavors and deep dark tones.
'11 Barbera Tre Vigne - Lush vanillin tones add to the deep fruit nose. Sweet, opulent flavors which are very polished and suave. Well-proportioned barbera with delicious fruit, yet elegant and polished.
'11 Capisme (young vine nebbiolo from vineyards in Monforte and Langhe, no oak) - Vibrant, wild strawberry nose. Lively fruit on palate, yet possesses the complex forest floor characteristics of Barolo. Supple structure.
'10 Arte (90% nebbiolo, 10% barbera, 100% new oak) - Focused, sexy nose of dark, spiced fruits. Rich and elegant on palate with cocoa and truffle tones.
'09 Barolo "Bricotto" - Very expressive on the nose with focused flavors of redfruit jam. The lively palate reveals balanced fruit with delicious traits of cedar and truffle.
'09 Barolo "Pajana" - Dense fruit and wildflowers on the nose. Sexy and powerful on palate with rich seductive flavors and serious structure.
'09 Ciabot Menetin - Pristine, woodsy, truffle on nose. Incredibly, ripe, dense savory flavors indicating perfectly ripe Nebbiolo...this is killer, powerful wine.
'08 Aeroplan Servaj (From a vineyard just above Rionda, in Serralunga) - A rich, masculine nose of dense fruit, cedar and truffle. Great structure and power. This is vin de garde.
'05 Barolo Percristina - Incredibly aromatic, herb-cedar-truffle nose with anise and savory tones. Soft, supple flavors which are exotic and lush with mouthwatering acidity. Perfectly built.
The Discovery of Giovanni Almondo
Steve had been hearing rumors of an exceptional producer of Arneis from some of our friends in Barbaresco and Barolo. We decided, after our visit with Altare, to go check them out. After arriving in the Roero town of Monta', we were greeted by the Patriarch and namesake of the winery, Giovanni Almondo. He lead us into the operation where we met his son, Domenico and two grandson's, Frederico and Stephano. It is these three currently running the winery. The weather was cold and miserable, just unrelenting downpours. We skipped the tour of the vineyards and got down to the business of tasting. While they make a little Barbera, Nebbiolo, Riesling and Brachetto, it is their 11 hectares planted to Arneis for which the Almondo family is quietly gaining a reputation. Planted on sandy soils, the wines are unlike any other Arneis I have tasted. With their ability to hit extraordinarily high notes these are truly the soprano diva of Arneis. In particular is a single vineyard they cultivate named Bricco delle Ciliegie (Hill of the Cherry trees) which indicates the region's past as a historic tree-fruit area. To this day there are still cherry trees planted in this vineyard. The aromatics and structure of this wine take Arneis to soaring new heights. Bringing these wines to market is a work in progress...stay tuned.
Tasting Nottes: Giovanni Almondo
'11 Arneis, Vigne Sparse, - Sleek, mineral nose with hints of whiteflower and peaches. This is firm, nervy Arneis which is incredibly expressive on the palate. It has very broad flavors of citrus and cherry blossom and wonderful mouthwatering acidity.
'11 Arneis, Bricco delle Ciliegie - Ethereal nose of minerals, white rose petals and citrus fruits. Mouthwatering and most expressive on the palate with rich citrus flavors, incredible structure and length.
'07 Arneis, Bricco delle Ciliege- seductive nose of hightone peach jam, minerals, gardenia and sandalwood. Rich and complex on the palate with lush tree fruit flavors. Still rockin'.
Giovanni Corino
You can refer to my October posting for some of the details on what's new at the Giovanni Corino Estate. Giuliano and his wife Stefania showed us their latest releases on what was our last stop in Piedmont. These are wines of elegance and purity that remain affordable, pure examples of what is classically La Morra. Giuliano is a wise, soft-spoken man who learned at the knee of Elio Altare. He has definitely found his own voice and the wines here have a distinctive style showing broad, complete flavors of (often times) dark fruit while not overwhelming their tertiary spice-herb-floral tones. The wines, like Giuliano, are quietly powerful yet are also balanced structually making them reliable reference points for the La Morra terrior.
Tasting Notes:
'11 Dolcetto D'Alba- Incredibly fresh, pure, clean, floral elegant and structured.
'11 Barbera D'Alba - Pristine dark fruits on nose. Very elegant on palate with polished acidity and floral tones.
'10 Barbera "Ciabot de Re" 50% New French Oak-16-18 months. Powerful nose of black fruits, vanilla and smoke. Lavish and elegant with lush spice and anise flavors. Long, suave, polished finish.
'11 Langhe Nebbiolo, no oak. Lovely, floral red fruit nose with woodspice tones. Great balance and structure on palate
'09 Barolo, La Morra Classic Corino nose with deep knit dark fruit, anise and floral elements. On the palate there are rich flavors and lush textures. Great Barolo value.
'09 Barolo Arborina Very fine soft, sweet fruits, flowers and spice on nose. Complex and polished on the palate with redolent red jam and spice-anise flavors. Well done.
'09 Barolo Giachini Dark, brooding nose with velveteen spice, floral and earth elements. Silken on palate with with exotic spice and tobacco flavors. Sensational mouthfeel.
'08 Barolo VV Serious, brooding nose with tobacco, anise and forest-floor aromas. Dense flavors of spiced cherry liqueur, seamlessly assembled...amazing wine.
Alfio Cavallotto
Located in the commune of Castiglione Falleto, the estate of Cavallotto includes some of the best parcels of Bricco Boschis which is the most renowned slope of the commune. Among those parcels is the tiny, but famed, San Giuseppe which occupies the most perfect exposure and highest elevation. There is also the Vignolo parcel located more mid-slope which has the potential to rival San Giuseppe in power and complexity. Bear Burgundy in mind where the Grand Cru parcels are mid to low slope on the Cotes. While the Boschis is the most well-known of the vineyards, the other vineyards on the Cavallotto estate are planted with a thoughtful selection of varietals, each perfectly suited to its site. The most common varietals of Barolo are planted at this estate along with some historic, such as Freisa and Grignolino. At the same time a superb example of Pinot Noir (both red and white) can also be found. This is what makes Cavallotto a truly intriguing property. I visited the estate ten years ago and Alfio Cavallotto was just beginning to assume responsibilities there. In the ten hears hence, the cellars seem to have received a bit of a facelift and what was once somewhat faded in appearance is now one of clean lines with an acknowledgment to its traditional roots. You will not find any barriques here, and the large casks are predominantly on the younger side so the cellar displays the personality of a modern traditionalist. Alfio is extremely humble almost to the point of appearing apologetic about his wines. On the other hand, the wines themselves are assertive and incredibly expressive. Tasting with him is like being subject to "the good cop, bad cop" routine.
Tasting Notes:
'11 Lange (White Pinot Noir). Cherry blossom nose with sandalwood tones. Rich, spicy and woodsy flavors with great depth and power.
'05 Langhe (Red Pinot Noir). Wow. Brilliant woodspice, truffle-earth and red currant nose. Supple on palate with redolent, serious redfruits made with true elegance...delicious.
'11 Dolcetto "Vigna Scot" (6-8 months in large cask). Seriously complex nose of cherry jam and spice. Seductive on palate with dark redfruit and anise tones...lovely
'10 Freisa (Alfio suggests seeking this wine especially in warmer vintages as Freisa seems to prefer the warmth). Perhaps a bit like Charbono, this Freisa shows the classic traits of fresh-crushed black grapes. Dark and chunky with snappy flavors.
'09 Barbera "Vigna del Cucolo". Very old vines, two years in cask. Huge blackfruits with anise tones and redolent spice. Lush and balanced on palate dark fruit and lovely polish. Elegant, mouthwatering acidity comprise the structure and the finish is long and fine.
'10 Langhe Nebbiolo. Restrained nose with deepknit spice and forest floor hues. Shy now but the brooding fruit indicates a very serious wine.
'07 Barolo Bricco Boschis (3 years in cask). Classically scented nose of ethereal truffle, cedar redfruits and dried flowers. Silken,supple and elegant on palate with masculine earth-cedar flavors. The finish is long and polished offering up classic Barolo flavors.
'08 Barolo Bricco Boschis. Another ethereal nose of mature redfruits with woodspice and leather elements. Fresh and sinewy on palate with a vibrant structure. Complex, racy, long finish.
'05 Barolo Riserva "Vingnolo" (4.5 years in cask). The nose on this wine was so completely stunning that it sent waves throughout my entire central nervous system. Incredibly deep, dark fruit on the nose with elements of anise, cedar, leather and savory herbs. Rich, complex and savory flavors of dark fruitss and mature aromatics are lifted by a lively structure and mouthwatering acidity.
'05 Barolo San Giuseppe. Serious, powerful nose which has dark, complex masculine fruit with fresh spice and leather tones. Lush, perfect acidity make up its structure. Finishes with heady tobacco flavors and textures.
'06 Barolo Vignolo. Broad, seductive nose of tartufo, anise and savory, dark, redfruit. Racy on palate with precise acidity and a finish which begs for more.
'06 Barolo San Guiseppe. Wow! Sappy, savory nose of tobacco, truffle spice and earth. Great mouthwatering structure with complex flavors on the finish.
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