“Not a Carmignano”, I recalled telling Steve, my importer, when he mentioned the initial contact he had with Silvia Vanucci of Piaggia. “ Number one-they’re never ripe, number two-Cabernet has no business being planted in Tuscany, and number three-they simply don’t sell” I protested not too delicately. This occurred just about a year ago, right around the time I had the chance to attend the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchiere tasting in New York. It was here by coincidence that I met Silvia Vanucci, who was pleasantly standing behind her table pouring tastes of her ’08 Carmignano Riserva. Wow, was I about to be schooled! The wine was nothing like any other Carmignano I had ever tasted...ripe, seductive and richly textured. It was nothing short of magnificent and far better integrated than many of the renowned Super-Tuscans I had the opportunity to try at the event. I reached for my phone and called Steve...
Perhaps the reason that a well-made Carmignano should be better than most modern Super-Tuscans lies in the history of the appellation. It was in the 18th century that producers in Carmignano began the tradition of blending Sangiovese and Cabernet together. They had roughly a 200 year advantage on their peers who only recently have jumped on the Super-Tuscan bandwagon. So while it was always in the region’s DNA, it is the exception rather than the rule that the wine reaches the heights that it does at Piaggia. As Silvia explained, there remains a culture in the appellation to harvest more according to tradition than to taste and complete ripeness. And this is what makes the wines of Piaggia so very special.
A little background. The region was given DOC status in 1975 and DOCG status in 1990. The laws on blending are as follows. Sangiovese can be a minimum of 50% to a maximum of 90%. Cabernet (Sauvignon or Franc) can be a minimum of 10% to a maximum of 20%. Canaiolo can be blended up to 20%. Merlot, Mammolo, Colorino and white grapes can also be used.
After our tour of Piedmont, we headed to Tuscany to visit some of our producers there, Piaggia was the first stop. Located just outside and to the Northwest of Florence, one can feel the proximity to the city in this pretty suburban appellation. With gently rolling hills and lovely vistas, Carmignano retains much of it’s rural nature, nestled quietly just beyond the din of the city. Piaggia is a very small father-daughter operation founded in the mid ’70’s by Mauro Vanucci. Mauro was quietly tending an impressive grill fire as we arrived. It is now run by his daughter Silvia. Silvia took us through the vineyards and it was evident that, over the years, her father had acquired some of the finest parcels in the appellation including a 15 ha parcel around a natural basin just a few hundred yards from the center of Carmignano.
During our tasting we were treated to the fruits of Mauro’s labors with the fire he was tending upon our arrival. He arrived with a huge doublecut “porterhouse” bistecca Fiorentina, which I presumed we all would share...then he produce three more, one for each of us. Needless to say, a terrific visit with Piaggia, but one that required a serious nap afterward.
Tasting Notes:
’10 Pietranera (100% Sangiovese IGT) Brilliant redfruits on nose with lively cedar and leather tones. Fresh, and vibrant on palate with deep well-integrated flavors.
’10 Il Sasso, single vineyard Carmignano (70% Sangiovese, 15% Cab. Sauv and Cab. Franc, 10% Merlot) Rich, velveteen nose with dark cedar fruits and spice. Tight, now but well structured.
’09 Il Sasso Ripe forward and lush nose. Supple, and silken on palate with broad dark fruit flavors and seductive textures. These are incredible values in Carmignano.
’08 Piaggia Carmignano Riserva VV (3 years aging prior to release= riserva) 2 years in oak. Rich, seductive nose with pepper and spice. Sweet flavors of rich fruit and camphor on palate.
’08 Poggio di Colli (Cabernet Franc)- Earthy, cedary sandalwood tones on nose. Lively, lush and racy on palate. This is impeccable wine and among the great Cab. Francs of Italy.
’09 Poggio di Colli Deep, dark rich complex blackfruits and spice on nose. Serious flavors on palate with firm, diciplined structure. Incredible wine.
’10 Poggio di Colli Savory basil tones on nose. Quite young now, but showing a meatiness now which should make this a long-lived profound wine.
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