OK, I'll be honest, this producer is nostalgic for me. When I was a kid growing up in New Jersey, one of my idols was my Sicilian grandfather... Grandpa Lanza. Grandpa Lanza loved to cook, grow things and make wine. He lived in Staten Island and would host most of the important family gatherings. My love affair with food all started under his gentle guidance. While he drank simple wines most of the time, he would occasionally buy something special for the holidays. I distinctly recall one Thanksgiving Dinner where the turkey sat like a figurehead amongst caponata, sausage, baked pasta and other Italian delights. On the table that day was a bottle of Borgogne Barolo. The label today is unchanged from what it was in the early '70's. Back then it was among precious few serious Italian wines imported into the US. Borgogno is now with Domaine Select and representing them is somewhat of a coming full-circle for me. There is a little of the '09 Barbera to be had, ('09 being very good for Dolcetto and Barbera) and I can't help but strongly recommend it. It's deep, soft and savoury with a gentle structure which bespeaks it's traditional methods. More redfruited, ethereal and nuanced than most Barbera, it's a terrific value. As you can see in the picture, I also suggest decanting. I'm having it tonight with Roast Chicken and Vegetables with Lentils.
I first noticed it during an extensive tasting of rieslings from Terry Theise portfolio. Most of the wines (grower champagnes included) were either organic or biodynamic and there was a similarity among all of them...vibrance, lift and a clear presence of high tones. There was just something "lively" about them. One of the most recent wines in the Row 95 portfolio to go Organic is the Campos de Risca. Though from the "Campos" group, the wine is from a small family estate in Jumilla run by the third generation, Elena Pacheco. Risca are large broken limestone rocks of which their vineyard is entirely comprised. These suckers aren't the smooth rounded boulders of Chateauneuf, they are rough cut, jagged and virtually impossible to walk on. Nothing else lives there,...weeds, bugs, and frankly I don't know why anything would want to. Mourvedre, however, loves it...the heat, those stones, no competition from pesky weeds, as Goldilocks...
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