OK, I'll be honest, this producer is nostalgic for me. When I was a kid growing up in New Jersey, one of my idols was my Sicilian grandfather... Grandpa Lanza. Grandpa Lanza loved to cook, grow things and make wine. He lived in Staten Island and would host most of the important family gatherings. My love affair with food all started under his gentle guidance. While he drank simple wines most of the time, he would occasionally buy something special for the holidays. I distinctly recall one Thanksgiving Dinner where the turkey sat like a figurehead amongst caponata, sausage, baked pasta and other Italian delights. On the table that day was a bottle of Borgogne Barolo. The label today is unchanged from what it was in the early '70's. Back then it was among precious few serious Italian wines imported into the US. Borgogno is now with Domaine Select and representing them is somewhat of a coming full-circle for me. There is a little of the '09 Barbera to be had, ('09 being very good for Dolcetto and Barbera) and I can't help but strongly recommend it. It's deep, soft and savoury with a gentle structure which bespeaks it's traditional methods. More redfruited, ethereal and nuanced than most Barbera, it's a terrific value. As you can see in the picture, I also suggest decanting. I'm having it tonight with Roast Chicken and Vegetables with Lentils.
Whether they come from Chinon, Samur or Bourgueil, Cabernet Franc based reds from the Loire conjure Laphroaig-esque impressions to knowing wine drinkers. They are often pungent, herbaceous, wildly complex wines with a small cult-like well-read fan-base. Not in the mainstream for sure. Just as Laphroaig is not indicative of all single malts, reds from the Loire region don't all share these same outsized traits. The wines from Xavier Amirault are just such an exception and it's not by accident that Vineyard Brands, an importer with deep roots in burgundy would be the kind of company to bring these wines into the United States. Land close to the banks of the Loire river is quite fertile and is reserved for cereals and pasture. Things begin to get interesting as one moves upwards from lower valley. Lower parcels in the Clos de Quarterons, the Amirault family's estate, have deep (up to 25 feet) gravelly soils which drain well and where generous ra...
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